Friday, September 01, 2006
Update #4: Passions in Mexico City - 1 September 2006
Buenas to all. It's been a while since I last wrote, and since I've been receiving a number of MIA emails from people wondering if I'm still alive, I figured it was time to get one out. I've been busy busy, what can I say? AND, I was kind of holding out for a big event: the 8th of September (can you believe it's SEPTEMBER?!?) marks the end of my second month here in Mexico City (can't believe that either!!!)!
And the theme for this update: Passions are aflame here in Mexico City...
Agitation
I think it's pretty safe to say that Mexico is in political turmoil right now. After a partial recount and a motion in the federal courts to change electoral legislation, Calderon has been officially declared the winner of next presidency (he is from the current president Fox's party, PAN, which is considered to be rather conservative, and a big ally of the US). Obrador, the "loser," has made a rallying cry, which, up til now, has been peaceful. Since I last wrote, I had the opportunity to walk down Reforma Avenue, which is the main East-West road that runs through all 3 hours of the city's expanse (HUGE). Well, Reforma has not been functioning since a week into my arrival to Mexico City (right after the election). It has unofficially been dubbed "Tent City" by the press, because immediately following the election the rally began, and a million Mexicans from all over the country took to the streets in peaceful protest. It's quite amazing to walk down this street, where there are no cars, businesses cannot open, and people are living in camping tents with their televisions, computers, and makeshift stoves fully functioning in the middle of what is on any normal day a major, bustling artery that runs through one of the world's biggest cities. Traffic has been totally re-routed. Police (who are supposed to be supporting the government), stand on guard to maintain the peace, but all they do is stand there for hours at a time. When I went with Randall (Princeton grad student), we spoke with one of the policemen, who told us gringos that it was unsafe for us to be in the "unrest" and we should go to the tourist markets that were around the corner. This was amusing because the "unrest" is nothing of the sort; it's completely peaceful, and even entertaining. During the weekdays, the street truly becomes a microcosm, in which teachers conduct classes for children and adults alike, vendors wander selling their goods, and day-to-day life continues for the most part. On the weekends, it becomes more like a festival, where clowns come to entertain, markets appear, and tourists (like me!) wander with their jaws dropped to see the spectacle. There are art presentations, theatrical exhibitions, and musical performances all around, and all with their political messages deeply ingrained. Many political parties are partaking in the protest, including the socialists and communists, and even the PRI has allied against the party that replaced its protracted reign.
Today tensions rose, as the president is set to deliver his final speech to Congress. Apparently, you could not get within one kilometer of the Congress building without proper identification, and armed guards surround the building in full uniform and, of course, fully armed. They are prepared for the worst, and it was even suggested to the president that he not deliver his speech in person, but rather send it with a messenger for fear that violence might erupt. Needless to say, it's a very tense atmosphere here in Mexico City--Obrador has done everything by peaceful, legal, and constitutional means possible now...what's next is the scary part. That said, I feel completely safe here, and my colonia is a sleepy place where everything is quite "tranquilo," for which I am very grateful.
More agitation: the woman of Mayan descent who thrust her hand at me today while I walked down Insurgentes (the main North-South street) with clear expectations for money because I am blonde and blue-eyed, and therefore rich. Little does she know...
I also endured a hurricane today (I hear that many of you are right now, so I can commiserate), which wasn't really a hurricane, but most definitely seemed like it. The streets were literally flooded and I walked through the river that was Insurgentes, and I will know why if I get strange diseases... I think Mother Nature is protesting something: perhaps she is joining in on the political protests, or, better yet, she is sick of the endless pollution here...
Excitement
Today at work I had much to celebrate because I finally got word that will help me to complete my next proposal at IMIFAP. I have been working on a grant to submit to the United Nations Women's Fund (UNIFEM) for the prevention of violence against indigenous women in Guatemala (indigenous populations compose at least 40% of the pop there, and probably much more). I think it can be a really great project, but we were waiting desperately to identify some partner organizations that have a good base in Guatemala. Well, we finally established that contact today, and (I hope!) it should all work out. I have quite a bit of freedom at work to design these projects, and I am enjoying so much actually having the opportunity to apply what I've learned! The Woodrow Wilson School really does know its stuff!!!
September 15th is Mexico's independence day (I'll bet you thought it was cinco de mayo, huh?!), and it should be a great celebration! The streets are bustling, as usual, but many more signs of patriotism are visible than usual--people have Mexican flags on their cars and display them in their windows, and flags are planted in the earth all over. Vendors have stands just to sell Mexican flags and other patriotic items. It is very possible that Mexicans might just be as nationalistic as we are! It's a fantastic atmosphere, with a lot of excitement and anticipation for the future...whatever it may hold.
More excitement stems from last weekend's adventures with Randall: first, we toured the national university that is home to half a million(!) students, UNAM, which is AMAZING. The resources are incredible (they have four outdoor pools!), AND students pay 0.50 pesos to attend, which is clearly only a symbolic fee. I will probably audit a course during the second semester in Latin American Studies, which should be very interesting because the university has leftist tendencies in its teaching. We also went to Xochimilco, which is Mexico City before it was drained! We took a "trajinero" down the canals, which I imagine is like Venice, but with MUCH MORE flavor:) There are vendors in trajineras throughout the canals, selling everything from drinks to full-cooked meals! It's quite impressive. And we saw the famed floating flowerbeds, which are gorgeous. It's very easy to forget that you are in the middle of one of the world's biggest cities while surrounded by the canals' incredible serenity. I enjoyed it so much.
And, to wrap up this long, long email (but what's new, right?!), my final excitement from last weekend was visiting the Virgen de Guadalupe. There are three basilicas dedicated to the patron saint of Mexico (and Latin America), one of which is too small, the other sinking (remember, Mexico City was a lake?), and the third, amazing and new and huge. It was fascinating to see the crowds shuffle through--the turnover must be huge, and they just go in and go out after each service conducted in the newest part of the basilica. Everyone brings their babies to be blessed by the Virgen, so I was thoroughly amused watching the little Mexican babies. I was also very impressed by Juan Diego's cloak, which is prominently displayed over the altar. It has survived 125 years without protection from the elements and people's touches, and 350 more years of protection behind glass, without significant fading or wear...in the 19th century, someone made a replica, which only endured 30 years!!!! It must be miraculous, right?!? Anyways, this year is the 475th anniversary of the miracle of the Virgen de Guadalupe, and I'll be here for the celebration!!!! I am a little excited about (and enthralled by) the story. My mother is finally happy...what can I say?
So, to wrap up this, yet again, very long email, I will leave you with a few observations to give you a better idea of what life is like in Mexico City:
--Everyone here is very image conscious, perhaps because it is a sign of your status. They must think I'm a bum.
--My female swimming teammates are wonderful, although I think the men still get irritated that a GIRL can beat them. They like to race me for the first two 50s of a set, and then they are busted for the rest of workout...it's quite amusing....AND I can officially swim "in Spanish" now!
--Finally, it's ok to ask some personal questions here that you would never ask in the States. I've been asked how much I weigh and how old I am, as well as the amount of money that I make and pay for housing more times than I can count. Luckily, I'm paid in USD and only know my weight in pounds, so it all means nothing to them, anyways:) Cultural differences...gotta love them.
Ok, I hope you all are happy and safe and well whereever in this world you may be.
