Saturday, September 30, 2006
Work and Play in DF: Update #5
And, for now, here's an update of my Mexican adventures: Work and Play...
IMIFAP.
Since I last wrote, I submitted a proposal to the UN Women's Fund (UNIFEM) for the prevention of violence against Guatemalan indigenous women. I spend countless hours perfecting the proposal, and I pray that it is funded and I have the chance to travel to Guatemala to oversee its implementation! That is what truly counts in this business... I also nearly died trying to organize Susan's (the president) references for an article. She gave me the name of an author and a year, and expected me to go at it. Let's just say I will ask not to do that the next time... As for now, I'm working on a few projects for UBS (Anouk!) and the Johan Jacobs Foundation in Switzerland... I'll keep you posted. Also, I expect to hear back from several donors upon my return in mid-October. So much excitement!
Travels and fun.
Teotihuacan, the famous ruins near Mexico City. About three weeks ago, a colleague of the German (Steffi) who is also staying at Casa del Colibri was kind enough to take us to these famous Aztec ruins. We scaled both pyramids of the sun and the mood, and it was a fantastic workout. Despite swimming every morning and being in relatively good shape, I was huffing and puffing with Mexico's obese and skinny alike, not to mention the fact that I ached for days following our trek. I can't imagine how they could have ever built those suckers! But it was great to breathe some fresh air and fun to do some of the more touristy adventures, since I don't do that often here! It was also fun to do like the Mexicans, and I even followed some (perhaps a little crazy) women who were dressed in traditional indigenous clothing and praying at each of the four corners of the pyramids (weird, wouldn't you think that a pyramid would have only three corners??? or maybe that's just me...) Together, we did our spiritual breathing, but I left the chanting to them for fear of offending them;) It was great amusement. We also had the opportunity to see the most recently unearthed pyramid of Quetzacoatyl, which has amazing heads carefully and precisely carved into the stone, all of which assume the form of the half bird/half serpent god. The site is fascinating because of its mere expanse, but also because there are several "mole hills" under a layer of smooth green grass, which quite possibly could be small pyramids that they have yet to unearth. They are making new discoveries all the time at the site...
Torre Latinomericano, the towering building with a spectacular view of the city, and El Moro, my favorite place in Mexico City. So, also thanks to Steffi's colleague, I made two other rather fantastic discoveries here in the city. The tower is cool...you can see the entire city on a clear day, and it is quite the impressive site. BUT, what is 100 times better in my book is the famoso El Moro, churros and chocolate caliente restaurant that is just 3 blocks down the street. This is a place that is open 24 hours and is kind of like the Donut Shack of Severna Park (Kris, Hoff, Andy, Aly, and Chet!!!), and is my new love affair in the city. For those of you who are not familiar with churros and chocolate, this is an incredible combination of fried dough sticks covered in sugar and cinnamon and hot chocolate, but Bent Spoon style, as though you are sipping melted chocolate of the finest quality (you know, like the facebook group?). Pretty much if you come to visit me, which you all are weolcomed, you will know this place. I am hooked.
Mexican Independence Day. So on September 16, Mexico celebrated its day of independence, and I jumped at the opportunity to celebrate Mexican style! Juan and Marie (Ross' cousin) invited me to grandma's house for an independence day celebration. Now, let me tell you, this largely resembled the Twenter family reunions in Booneville, but this was truly something spectacular. About 30 family members squeezed onto the roof on which grandma's one-room house is situated, covered with tarps and complete with stakes sticking up for future additions. There were three young men, all about the same age, and all named Juan, with a different second name, which I found amusing, as they were all related and doing such a thing in the States in a big no no. For dinner, we had to eat in two shifts because we were so many, and we feasted on traditional pozole, which is like popcorn and chicken and other animal parts that I don't want to think about all stewed together in the chicken broth. It wasn't bad, but the rest of the spread was what really sealed the deal. They had meat, tostados, chiles, cheeses, veggies, and other goodies all along the table. They also made this potent drink whose name I can't remember, but I thought the tequilla kick from the one sip I took would kill me. It burned all the way down... So I just enjoyed the grapefruit flavored soda for the rest of the night. At 11pm, President Fox delivered his annual "Grito" from Dolores Hidalgo, rather than from the Zocalo in DF, due to the political tensions. We chanted along with him on the television: "Viva Mexico," which was great fun.
The politics.
Fox and Calderon versus Obrador and the rest of Mexico (or so it seems). To get you up to date on the political situation here, I will describe independence day, and the events that followed. As I just mentioned, Fox could not give the annual Grito from the Zocalo. (The Grito, or literally the "yell" or "call," is delivered every year in the Zocalo by the president during the night of the 15th, symbolic of Hidalgo's declaration of Mexican independence in 1810). This was because Obrador and his supporters flooded the Zocalo so that Obrador could deliver the Grito. So this happened, and luckily Fox was convinced to deliver it instead from another state, so as to prevent violence, etc. The next day, on the actual independence day, Obrador's supporters rallied in the Zocalo and declared Obrador the legitimate president of the Republic, establishing a "parallel government" to rival that of soon-to-be president Calderon. Then, in the following days, the protesters dwindled, and they were cleared from the city. The only agitation I have heard of since is from Oaxaca (southern Mexico, large indigenous population), but I think that is relatively normal....although, it is rather violent in Oaxaca right now, for a number of reasons... It will be interesting to see what happens in November when Calderon is to be sworn in as president. Supposedly Obrador will be sworn in by the parallel government a few days earlier. I will let you know! I personally think that the idea of a parallel government could be very interesting. I mean, it would be like capitalism, but for governments, competing for support, and it just might force them to be a little less corrupt and a little more effective in assisting Mexico's most vulnerable people... Perhaps this is a new political system in the making and I'm here to witness it! That, or I am a big nerd.
More travels and fun.
Gauri. I have a new friend here at Casa del Colibri and at IMIFAP! It is so exciting to have a friend! Gauri is Indian, but American, and she has just begun working at IMIFAP and is living with me here at Casa. She and I get along scarily well, and we have a similar sense of humor--she laughs at my jokes, and I laugh at hers (Kits, I hope you've found someone to temporarily take my place in Japan!), and we generally enjoy eachother's company. We have done a lot of traveling together in her short time here, and so it's fun! Today, in fact, we decided to go to a national park--Desierto de Leones-- but we never actually made it there because the pesero dropped us off in this sketchy shantytown with a group of men just feasting on my blonde hair and blue eyes. Because Gauri is barely 5 feet tall and we felt quite vulnerable without a big man to protect us and would have to wait at least a half hour til the next bus arrived, we hopped right back on a returning pesero and made the hour-long trip home. But it was not a loss because the view was amazing and it was a fun ride through the mountains. Needless to say, when we returned, we hopped right on the metro and made our way to El Moro. We knew that that was a sure thing!!!! So Gauri is awesome. That's not to say that I don't have Mexican friends, as well! Tomorrow we will go with one of my swimming teammates, Anaid, on a tour of a few museums that are downtown. Anaid is amazing because she is a female lawyer (and here in Mexico, that is a hard task!), and she works with DIF, which is the Mexican Family Institute, working for child and family welfare. We have a lot in common, and she is one of my favorite people! There are several others, about whom I'm sure you'll hear in the coming months!
Mexican men. So I thought for a really long time that I wanted a Latin Lover. You know, tall, dark, and handsome, whispering sweet nothings in my ear in Spanish... Yeah, all of that. Well, it turns out that a few Mexican men have ruined it for all Latin men in my book--lucky for Pier;) Since I last wrote, I have been stared at, catcalled, asked out on three dates, and generally objectified. While I do realize that much of this is culturally acceptable, it has been very hard for me to stomach, especially in a city in which I thought I could remain relatively anonymous. Definitely not the case: My favorite was when a man came up to me at a dance bar last weekend and said to me, "I would really like to ask you out to dinner or coffee or whatever your heart would desire." Wow, how to respond? Not only did I not know this man, he was also just a little younger than my father! He could not have been any younger than 45 years old! So I said "no, I'm sorry," and when he asked why, I told him that I have a boyfriend. His response to that was, "well is he in the States," and when I said no, "well is he in Mexico?" Again, when I said no, he responded, "oh, well then it's no problem." This is when I snapped and stopped being so polite. I firmly told him that no, actually it is not ok, and where I come from that is just not how it works. So he finally got the message, and left me in peace. That same night, another man asked me to go to Acapulco with him...the NEXT DAY! Ahhh, gotta love being a second class citizen...
Ok, so I'm exhausted by this email, which is perhaps why I've been putting it off for so long. But I wanted to let you all know that I am alive and happy, and I will be out of touch for the next two weeks, and then overwhelmed for the next seven...
I hope this email finds you well. I promise I had every intention of keeping this short, but a month's worth of adventures just doesn't fit in one paragraph. Thank you for reading, and please continue to send your updates!
To conclude, I have noticed that many of you continue to send email to my Princeton email address. Please update your address books, and send future emails to me at sschaffe@alumni.princeton.edu or sschaffe@gmail.com. They will close my undergrad Princeton account sometime in October! So sad:( Thank you!
Friday, September 01, 2006
Update #4: Passions in Mexico City - 1 September 2006
Buenas to all. It's been a while since I last wrote, and since I've been receiving a number of MIA emails from people wondering if I'm still alive, I figured it was time to get one out. I've been busy busy, what can I say? AND, I was kind of holding out for a big event: the 8th of September (can you believe it's SEPTEMBER?!?) marks the end of my second month here in Mexico City (can't believe that either!!!)!
And the theme for this update: Passions are aflame here in Mexico City...
Agitation
I think it's pretty safe to say that Mexico is in political turmoil right now. After a partial recount and a motion in the federal courts to change electoral legislation, Calderon has been officially declared the winner of next presidency (he is from the current president Fox's party, PAN, which is considered to be rather conservative, and a big ally of the US). Obrador, the "loser," has made a rallying cry, which, up til now, has been peaceful. Since I last wrote, I had the opportunity to walk down Reforma Avenue, which is the main East-West road that runs through all 3 hours of the city's expanse (HUGE). Well, Reforma has not been functioning since a week into my arrival to Mexico City (right after the election). It has unofficially been dubbed "Tent City" by the press, because immediately following the election the rally began, and a million Mexicans from all over the country took to the streets in peaceful protest. It's quite amazing to walk down this street, where there are no cars, businesses cannot open, and people are living in camping tents with their televisions, computers, and makeshift stoves fully functioning in the middle of what is on any normal day a major, bustling artery that runs through one of the world's biggest cities. Traffic has been totally re-routed. Police (who are supposed to be supporting the government), stand on guard to maintain the peace, but all they do is stand there for hours at a time. When I went with Randall (Princeton grad student), we spoke with one of the policemen, who told us gringos that it was unsafe for us to be in the "unrest" and we should go to the tourist markets that were around the corner. This was amusing because the "unrest" is nothing of the sort; it's completely peaceful, and even entertaining. During the weekdays, the street truly becomes a microcosm, in which teachers conduct classes for children and adults alike, vendors wander selling their goods, and day-to-day life continues for the most part. On the weekends, it becomes more like a festival, where clowns come to entertain, markets appear, and tourists (like me!) wander with their jaws dropped to see the spectacle. There are art presentations, theatrical exhibitions, and musical performances all around, and all with their political messages deeply ingrained. Many political parties are partaking in the protest, including the socialists and communists, and even the PRI has allied against the party that replaced its protracted reign.
Today tensions rose, as the president is set to deliver his final speech to Congress. Apparently, you could not get within one kilometer of the Congress building without proper identification, and armed guards surround the building in full uniform and, of course, fully armed. They are prepared for the worst, and it was even suggested to the president that he not deliver his speech in person, but rather send it with a messenger for fear that violence might erupt. Needless to say, it's a very tense atmosphere here in Mexico City--Obrador has done everything by peaceful, legal, and constitutional means possible now...what's next is the scary part. That said, I feel completely safe here, and my colonia is a sleepy place where everything is quite "tranquilo," for which I am very grateful.
More agitation: the woman of Mayan descent who thrust her hand at me today while I walked down Insurgentes (the main North-South street) with clear expectations for money because I am blonde and blue-eyed, and therefore rich. Little does she know...
I also endured a hurricane today (I hear that many of you are right now, so I can commiserate), which wasn't really a hurricane, but most definitely seemed like it. The streets were literally flooded and I walked through the river that was Insurgentes, and I will know why if I get strange diseases... I think Mother Nature is protesting something: perhaps she is joining in on the political protests, or, better yet, she is sick of the endless pollution here...
Excitement
Today at work I had much to celebrate because I finally got word that will help me to complete my next proposal at IMIFAP. I have been working on a grant to submit to the United Nations Women's Fund (UNIFEM) for the prevention of violence against indigenous women in Guatemala (indigenous populations compose at least 40% of the pop there, and probably much more). I think it can be a really great project, but we were waiting desperately to identify some partner organizations that have a good base in Guatemala. Well, we finally established that contact today, and (I hope!) it should all work out. I have quite a bit of freedom at work to design these projects, and I am enjoying so much actually having the opportunity to apply what I've learned! The Woodrow Wilson School really does know its stuff!!!
September 15th is Mexico's independence day (I'll bet you thought it was cinco de mayo, huh?!), and it should be a great celebration! The streets are bustling, as usual, but many more signs of patriotism are visible than usual--people have Mexican flags on their cars and display them in their windows, and flags are planted in the earth all over. Vendors have stands just to sell Mexican flags and other patriotic items. It is very possible that Mexicans might just be as nationalistic as we are! It's a fantastic atmosphere, with a lot of excitement and anticipation for the future...whatever it may hold.
More excitement stems from last weekend's adventures with Randall: first, we toured the national university that is home to half a million(!) students, UNAM, which is AMAZING. The resources are incredible (they have four outdoor pools!), AND students pay 0.50 pesos to attend, which is clearly only a symbolic fee. I will probably audit a course during the second semester in Latin American Studies, which should be very interesting because the university has leftist tendencies in its teaching. We also went to Xochimilco, which is Mexico City before it was drained! We took a "trajinero" down the canals, which I imagine is like Venice, but with MUCH MORE flavor:) There are vendors in trajineras throughout the canals, selling everything from drinks to full-cooked meals! It's quite impressive. And we saw the famed floating flowerbeds, which are gorgeous. It's very easy to forget that you are in the middle of one of the world's biggest cities while surrounded by the canals' incredible serenity. I enjoyed it so much.
And, to wrap up this long, long email (but what's new, right?!), my final excitement from last weekend was visiting the Virgen de Guadalupe. There are three basilicas dedicated to the patron saint of Mexico (and Latin America), one of which is too small, the other sinking (remember, Mexico City was a lake?), and the third, amazing and new and huge. It was fascinating to see the crowds shuffle through--the turnover must be huge, and they just go in and go out after each service conducted in the newest part of the basilica. Everyone brings their babies to be blessed by the Virgen, so I was thoroughly amused watching the little Mexican babies. I was also very impressed by Juan Diego's cloak, which is prominently displayed over the altar. It has survived 125 years without protection from the elements and people's touches, and 350 more years of protection behind glass, without significant fading or wear...in the 19th century, someone made a replica, which only endured 30 years!!!! It must be miraculous, right?!? Anyways, this year is the 475th anniversary of the miracle of the Virgen de Guadalupe, and I'll be here for the celebration!!!! I am a little excited about (and enthralled by) the story. My mother is finally happy...what can I say?
So, to wrap up this, yet again, very long email, I will leave you with a few observations to give you a better idea of what life is like in Mexico City:
--Everyone here is very image conscious, perhaps because it is a sign of your status. They must think I'm a bum.
--My female swimming teammates are wonderful, although I think the men still get irritated that a GIRL can beat them. They like to race me for the first two 50s of a set, and then they are busted for the rest of workout...it's quite amusing....AND I can officially swim "in Spanish" now!
--Finally, it's ok to ask some personal questions here that you would never ask in the States. I've been asked how much I weigh and how old I am, as well as the amount of money that I make and pay for housing more times than I can count. Luckily, I'm paid in USD and only know my weight in pounds, so it all means nothing to them, anyways:) Cultural differences...gotta love them.
Ok, I hope you all are happy and safe and well whereever in this world you may be.
