Friday, July 14, 2006
Contrasts in Mexico City: Update #2 - 14 July 2006
Hello all, it's been about a week since my last update and SO MUCH has happened since then! For starters, I began my job with IMIFAP, the Mexican Institute of Family and Population Research. I am ultimately going to be writing grants to big deal donors (which may include pharma companies like Pfizer and Eli Lilly, UNFPA, Mama Cash, the Elton John AIDS Foundation, and many others), but right now I'm doing pretty lame work. My director, Saya, is leaving in a month (of which neither PiLA or I were informed before my arrival), and so she's scrambling to finish the 2005 Annual Report. That said, I've been doing write-ups for the English version of the Report, which was unbearable at first, but is now a bit more interesting now that I'm actually writing. I think my first big "real" job will be to write a project proposal to Eli Lilly for a program for breast cancer prevention. I'm looking forward to that because it will be true thinking and research! As for the people, I'm slowly getting to know several of the people at work, and they are all very nice and accommodating. The office has quite a few English speakers since we're working internationally, so it is nice to have that, I must admit!
I'm hoping to keep this short so as not to keep you all reading forever, so I thought that I'd offer you what I've termed the contrasts of Mexico City to paint a picture of the situation down here:
Chaos and Tranquility. This is the biggest city in the world, and, needless to say, it's bustling all the time. It's crazy to see the number of cars that are on the streets all the time, and the government has even had to take measures to prevent everyone from driving every day of the week (for the environment's sake too). As a consequence, there is one day per week that private car owners cannot drive, depending on their license plate numbers. But, much to my pleasant surprise, nestled in many corners of the city are beautiful parks that are truly an oasis in the middle of the city. There is one that I walk through every day as I return from work, Parque Hundido, that is so wonderful. The moment you walk in, you disappear from the crazy busy traffic on the main north-south road, Insurgentes, and the noise and polluted smells disappear, and you find children playing and couples strolling. It's amazing. The other day as I walked home from work, there were 9 or 10 children performing a traditional ballet folklorico style dance for parents and a small audience. They were soooo cute! I hope to eventually get to know the area well enough to run there through side roads because it would be a great place to exercise.
You also have the place where I'm living, Casa del Colibri (which means "home of the hummingbird," and, it's true, there are tons!), which itself is another oasis in the middle of the city. There are so many flowers and hummingbirds and tiny lizards all over the patio. I have often gone out there after work to read or write in my journal. It's quite peaceful!
Wealth and Poverty. This is a big one, and it's extremely exaggerated in this city. You have poverty surrounded by wealth and wealth surrounded by poverty in every corner. I live in a fairly quiet neighborhood (Colonia Napoles) that has a BMW auto dealer, an upscale spa (where I'm taking pilates), and the most expensive supermarket possible, and yet there are still beggars on the street and tons of informal sector business-people. My biggest observation has been that every middle-class and wealthy home is hidden behind countless fences, locks, security systems, and privately hired guards because people fear for the safety of their families and properties. It all seems rather silly to me, however, because if all of the money invested in the barbed wire, security cameras, and watchmen was channeled into a program to create secure and sustainable jobs for the poor, the city would be so much safer. Although, I am not one to talk...Casa del Colibri is safely nestled behind a nice large wall and a locked gate. It's quite secure...
I think I'm just going to have to keep this one going a little longer, simply because this is life in Mexico City. I was walking down the street today, and I passed so many business-people in suits and ties and skirts, and, while some of them were clearly wearing designer labels, there was one man in particular whose suit had holes in it from wear. It's unbelievable. I'm quickly learning, however, that many of those with so little, are also quite willing and eager to share the little that they do have with others.
Also, a sad reality: children begging in the streets. It's so hard to ignore them, but Juan told me that their fathers send them out to collect money, while keeping a close eye on them just from afar. They beat them if they don't get money, but, if they do get money, they use it to buy a living space where they can keep their children to continue the nasty cycle. Juan told me that it's better not to support it because if they don't make the money, it's more likely that an aid institution will take the children away. It's so hard to refuse the children though:(
Just a few more items, as I can't remember the other contrasts I wanted to use. I'm sure I'll think of them as soon as I press send:
-I drank fresh squeezed grapefruit juice today for pennies...soooo yummy and healthy and CHEAP!
-Fresh fruit is cheap in general here...mmm!
-Another Princetonian grad student is here for the summer, Sarah, and she cooks with me, and she makes fabulous guacamole! YUM!
-There's an adorable little old man who guards a house or store or something on my walk to the bus, and we always say HI...he's my amigo.
-I'm in a pilates class, and it is hilarious! Today was my first time with an instructor named Ulysses, whose bright red pants were tighter than mine, his belly shirt reading "kiss me," and his eyes never removed from his own reflection in the mirror! It was something to see! I did get a good workout, nonetheless!! Also, the other day I was invited to stay for the dance class that followed pilates. To end on a funny note, picture this: instructor in a black cat suit with sheer middle so you can see her enormous and shiney belly ring, old woman bebopping in the corner to her own tune, crazy 30-something laughing at me and giving me high fives whenever I finally get something right, and me flailing in the corner like the gringa whose arms are waaaay too long for this stuff! Wow, it was great!
Ok, that's all from South of the Border for now. This turned out to be much longer than I'd anticipated. Thanks if you're still reading! I hope you all are well, and I'd love to hear from you!
I'm hoping to keep this short so as not to keep you all reading forever, so I thought that I'd offer you what I've termed the contrasts of Mexico City to paint a picture of the situation down here:
Chaos and Tranquility. This is the biggest city in the world, and, needless to say, it's bustling all the time. It's crazy to see the number of cars that are on the streets all the time, and the government has even had to take measures to prevent everyone from driving every day of the week (for the environment's sake too). As a consequence, there is one day per week that private car owners cannot drive, depending on their license plate numbers. But, much to my pleasant surprise, nestled in many corners of the city are beautiful parks that are truly an oasis in the middle of the city. There is one that I walk through every day as I return from work, Parque Hundido, that is so wonderful. The moment you walk in, you disappear from the crazy busy traffic on the main north-south road, Insurgentes, and the noise and polluted smells disappear, and you find children playing and couples strolling. It's amazing. The other day as I walked home from work, there were 9 or 10 children performing a traditional ballet folklorico style dance for parents and a small audience. They were soooo cute! I hope to eventually get to know the area well enough to run there through side roads because it would be a great place to exercise.
You also have the place where I'm living, Casa del Colibri (which means "home of the hummingbird," and, it's true, there are tons!), which itself is another oasis in the middle of the city. There are so many flowers and hummingbirds and tiny lizards all over the patio. I have often gone out there after work to read or write in my journal. It's quite peaceful!
Wealth and Poverty. This is a big one, and it's extremely exaggerated in this city. You have poverty surrounded by wealth and wealth surrounded by poverty in every corner. I live in a fairly quiet neighborhood (Colonia Napoles) that has a BMW auto dealer, an upscale spa (where I'm taking pilates), and the most expensive supermarket possible, and yet there are still beggars on the street and tons of informal sector business-people. My biggest observation has been that every middle-class and wealthy home is hidden behind countless fences, locks, security systems, and privately hired guards because people fear for the safety of their families and properties. It all seems rather silly to me, however, because if all of the money invested in the barbed wire, security cameras, and watchmen was channeled into a program to create secure and sustainable jobs for the poor, the city would be so much safer. Although, I am not one to talk...Casa del Colibri is safely nestled behind a nice large wall and a locked gate. It's quite secure...
I think I'm just going to have to keep this one going a little longer, simply because this is life in Mexico City. I was walking down the street today, and I passed so many business-people in suits and ties and skirts, and, while some of them were clearly wearing designer labels, there was one man in particular whose suit had holes in it from wear. It's unbelievable. I'm quickly learning, however, that many of those with so little, are also quite willing and eager to share the little that they do have with others.
Also, a sad reality: children begging in the streets. It's so hard to ignore them, but Juan told me that their fathers send them out to collect money, while keeping a close eye on them just from afar. They beat them if they don't get money, but, if they do get money, they use it to buy a living space where they can keep their children to continue the nasty cycle. Juan told me that it's better not to support it because if they don't make the money, it's more likely that an aid institution will take the children away. It's so hard to refuse the children though:(
Just a few more items, as I can't remember the other contrasts I wanted to use. I'm sure I'll think of them as soon as I press send:
-I drank fresh squeezed grapefruit juice today for pennies...soooo yummy and healthy and CHEAP!
-Fresh fruit is cheap in general here...mmm!
-Another Princetonian grad student is here for the summer, Sarah, and she cooks with me, and she makes fabulous guacamole! YUM!
-There's an adorable little old man who guards a house or store or something on my walk to the bus, and we always say HI...he's my amigo.
-I'm in a pilates class, and it is hilarious! Today was my first time with an instructor named Ulysses, whose bright red pants were tighter than mine, his belly shirt reading "kiss me," and his eyes never removed from his own reflection in the mirror! It was something to see! I did get a good workout, nonetheless!! Also, the other day I was invited to stay for the dance class that followed pilates. To end on a funny note, picture this: instructor in a black cat suit with sheer middle so you can see her enormous and shiney belly ring, old woman bebopping in the corner to her own tune, crazy 30-something laughing at me and giving me high fives whenever I finally get something right, and me flailing in the corner like the gringa whose arms are waaaay too long for this stuff! Wow, it was great!
Ok, that's all from South of the Border for now. This turned out to be much longer than I'd anticipated. Thanks if you're still reading! I hope you all are well, and I'd love to hear from you!
Saturday, July 08, 2006
¿Qué Hondas? Report #1 from Mexico City - 8 July 2006
It's hard to believe I was in the US this morning and now, as I type, I'm sitting in my new "home" in the heart of Mexico City! Crazy! But, yes, I'm here now, and the adventure begins. I was very pleased to have an uneventful plane ride over with the slight exception of the outright discrimination that I experienced against tall people. It was unbelievable. I'm not even that tall in comparison to many people. So I cramped into my tiny Mexicana airline window seat only to have the little girl in front of me recline her chair. That was fun. Life truly is harder for tall people! That, and then I got to taco option for my airline meal: big mistake. First, tacos in Mexico City are different from our usual Americanized tacos, and, second, two words: airplane food. Anyhow, as we flew over the city, I did not see the thick cloud of smog about which every tourbook and person warned me. I was also amazed by the number of buildings and structures that are crammed into one space. I thought we were flying over Mexico City when I saw a large number of buildings (and we probably were), but then the "large" number increased at least 3 fold. Lots and lots and lots of buildings, and even more people.
After landing, I sailed smoothly through immigration, got my baggage (of course, the last ones off the plane), and then through customs with no problems. Much to my relief, I had a lovely couple waiting right there for me: Marie and her boyfriend, Juan. A little background: Marie is the French cousin of the mom of a friend (Ross) from school who I met through Pier, and she is working here in Mexico City (just a few blocks from where I'm living as it turns out in this enormous city). Anyhow, Marie and Juan took great care of me, and brought me to my new home, here at Casa del Colibri in the heart of (what I think is) the more international area of Mexico City, although I may have made that up. Casa del Colibri is a little oasis in the middle of this huge city with green plant life and flowers all around. It's very secure, and within its walls I have my own room, bathroom, and kitchen. I already feel quite safe and comfortable, although I haven't ventured out to meet my neighbors yet.
After I got my room, Marie and Juan took me out to get my new cell phone working (the fellow in this possition before me so kindly left me her phone) and then we had a nice lunch, where I ordered acceptable (and quite good!) tacos. Then I returned to unpack and move into my room. That's done, and I'm off to bed quite early tonight.
Aside from me, Mexico City is quite a happening place right now. As many of you may know, Mexico just had a very close presidential election between Calderon of PAN (Fox's successor within the party) and Obrador of PRD (more left leaning). Anyhow, Calderon was declared the winner by some small amount, and now Obrador is demanding a recount, which may not even happen. The long and short of it is that Obrador had called on his supporters to protest in Mexico City today as I was flying in. Good, right? Well, I learned today from my gracious hosts that you have to drive 3 hours to span the whole of the city, so, needless to say, I saw no demonstrations. It is quite exciting to be in Latin America right now. My only hope is that whomever they elect to the presidency maintains a stable economy since half of my salary is in Mexican pesos! I will be sure to keep you updated!
Ok, I'm off to bed. Tomorrow will be a day full of world cup celebrations at Marie's and Juan's home!
After landing, I sailed smoothly through immigration, got my baggage (of course, the last ones off the plane), and then through customs with no problems. Much to my relief, I had a lovely couple waiting right there for me: Marie and her boyfriend, Juan. A little background: Marie is the French cousin of the mom of a friend (Ross) from school who I met through Pier, and she is working here in Mexico City (just a few blocks from where I'm living as it turns out in this enormous city). Anyhow, Marie and Juan took great care of me, and brought me to my new home, here at Casa del Colibri in the heart of (what I think is) the more international area of Mexico City, although I may have made that up. Casa del Colibri is a little oasis in the middle of this huge city with green plant life and flowers all around. It's very secure, and within its walls I have my own room, bathroom, and kitchen. I already feel quite safe and comfortable, although I haven't ventured out to meet my neighbors yet.
After I got my room, Marie and Juan took me out to get my new cell phone working (the fellow in this possition before me so kindly left me her phone) and then we had a nice lunch, where I ordered acceptable (and quite good!) tacos. Then I returned to unpack and move into my room. That's done, and I'm off to bed quite early tonight.
Aside from me, Mexico City is quite a happening place right now. As many of you may know, Mexico just had a very close presidential election between Calderon of PAN (Fox's successor within the party) and Obrador of PRD (more left leaning). Anyhow, Calderon was declared the winner by some small amount, and now Obrador is demanding a recount, which may not even happen. The long and short of it is that Obrador had called on his supporters to protest in Mexico City today as I was flying in. Good, right? Well, I learned today from my gracious hosts that you have to drive 3 hours to span the whole of the city, so, needless to say, I saw no demonstrations. It is quite exciting to be in Latin America right now. My only hope is that whomever they elect to the presidency maintains a stable economy since half of my salary is in Mexican pesos! I will be sure to keep you updated!
Ok, I'm off to bed. Tomorrow will be a day full of world cup celebrations at Marie's and Juan's home!
